Framing & Display Guide

I get a lot of questions about framing after a piece arrives, so I created this guide to make the process simple and approachable.

Disclaimer: I do not endorse or partner with any retailers listed below. These are simply options to help you get started.

This is not as scary as it seems! If you are new to framing, two recos - 1.) go to a Michaels Arts & Crafts and head to the back to their framing department. They are lovely and wonderful and approachable and will help educate you on the basics of framing art; 2.) Find a local framer and do the same :) 

My General Recommendation

For paper works, I almost always recommend:

1. Framing behind UV-resistant glass or plexiglass 
   1. Protects the piece from fading
   2. Protects piece from dust (especially important for works layered with oil pastel, which never fully "dries" or "cures" 
2. Matting 
   1. Creates an elevated look!
   2. Also creates a small gap between the painted surface of the painting and the glass (especially important for my pieces that have oil pastel detail, which is prone to smudging)
      1. Note: not all matting is created equal! Some is as thin as a piece of copy paper! Err on the side of thick (look for a beveled edge and cardboard-like thickness) or opt for "spacers" where budget allows.
3. Spacers/Spacing
   1. to create even more space between the painted surface and the glass - helpful for pieces with very thick pastel :) 

A Note on My Process 

I intentionally create my work to fit standard, off-the-shelf frame sizes - including frames with matting that might otherwise be purchased for photo prints. Common sizes include:

• 5” × 7” opening
• 8” × 10” opening
• 11” × 14” opening

However, there’s a nuance. A 16" x 20" frame matted to 11" x 14" actually has a mat opening of more like 10 3/8" and 13 3/8" (slightly smaller than advertised)! To account for this, my 11" x 14" paintings are painted to slightly larger than a standard mat opening. (So, slightly smaller than 11"x14", slightly larger than the mat opening!) This ensures there's no awkward white space between the mat opening and the edges of the painting. 

For works signed in pencil below the painting, this does mean the signature can get cut off with an off-the-shelf frame. I'm always happy to sign elsewhere on the painting on request. 

Where to Buy Frames

There are great options at every price point.

Off-the-Shelf Frames

Lower budget

• Golden State Art
• Target
• Walmart

I personally love Golden State Art and have many of these frames in my house. I love that their site lets you search by the size of the art you're looking to frame.

Higher budget

• West Elm
• Pottery Barn

These tend to have better materials and finishes if you’re looking for something more elevated.

Custom Framing Options

If you want something more tailored, custom framing is a great route.

Good for:

• Matching a specific room or paint color
• Upgrading materials (museum glass, archival mats)
• Statement pieces

Lower budget

• Michaels

Higher budget

• Framebridge
• Local framers (highly recommended if budget allows)

 

Denver Recommendations

If you're local, I’ve heard great things from clients about:

• AUM Framing (Colfax)
• The Corner Custom Framing (Highlands)

Cherry Creek also has several excellent framers - worth browsing Yelp, Google Reviews based on your style and budget.

FAQ
What is matting?

Matting is the border (usually paper or board) that sits between the artwork and the frame.

It:

• Creates visual breathing room
• Prevents the artwork from touching the glass
• Adds a more finished, gallery-style look

Do I have to use a mat?

No, but I strongly recommend it for paper works.

Skipping matting can:

• Make the piece feel less finished
• Risk smudging (especially with oil pastel)

That said, a no-mat look can work if you prefer something more modern.

What size frame should I buy?

Buy based on the artwork size listed, not the exact measured size.

Example:

For a 10” × 8” piece → buy a frame labeled for 10” × 8” artwork
(usually a 14” × 11” frame with mat)

 

Why doesn’t my artwork perfectly match the listed size?

This is intentional! I slightly oversize the painted area so that it sits cleanly behind standard mats and so you don’t get any white edges showing. (If you want more of a "white edge" look, consider a double-mat!

What is a “mat opening”?

The mat opening is the cut-out area where the artwork shows through.

Important: It is usually smaller than the stated size; this is normal and expected

Should I do a single mat or double mat?

Totally personal preference.

• Single mat → clean, modern
• Double mat → more traditional, slightly more elevated

If you’re unsure, start with a single mat - you can’t go wrong.

 

What color mat should I choose?

Safe options:

• White
• Off-white / cream

These work with almost everything and let the artwork stand out.

If you want something bolder:

• Pull a subtle tone from the painting
• Or match your room

 

What type of glass should I use?

If budget allows:

• UV-protective glass → prevents fading
• Non-glare glass → reduces reflections

Standard glass is perfectly fine for most situations.

Can I frame this myself?

Yes—most clients do! Off-the-shelf frames are designed for easy assembly. If you feel unsure or want a perfect finish, a local framer can do it quickly and beautifully and provide recommendations based on your needs.

Will framing damage the artwork?

No - when done correctly. Use:

• Acid-free mats (standard in most frames)
• Gentle mounting (no aggressive adhesives)

Can I hang this in a bathroom or humid space?

I’d avoid high-humidity areas unless using:

• Proper sealing
• High-quality framing

Paper works are best kept in dry environments. A local framer can offer more guidance on this. 

 

 

Canvas Works

For canvas pieces, I typically recommend floating frames.

Why:

• They create a clean, gallery-style look
• They give the artwork space to “breathe”
• They feel elevated without being heavy

I offer floating frames on many pieces and work with a local woodworker to create them. Local framers can also create floating frames - work with them directly to quote a price based on the size of your work. 

While most of my works ship stretched, on occasion I do ship larger works rolled. Framers should be well-acquainted with the process to re-stretch" a rolled work (and then adding a frame), but worth checking to be sure the price makes sense with your budget!